Particularly for devives using super capacitors (to keep the clock alive) vs lithium batteries (which can and typically do overheat in the summer months). 1) some makers of the 3rd party hardwire kits are already using this connection option 2) for dash cams with motion sensors or 'G' sensors (this feature recognizes the car being hit or bumped, depending on the sensitivity selected) - having the unswitched power is a must. I see the ODB port as a great and easy hook up for dash cams.
You will not be taxing the power of the OBD port, which is meant to supply up to 4 amps even the dual dashcams spec out at 2 amps or below. No problem when you need to use the obd port just pull out the adapter and plug in the scanner. If my cigarette lighter was always on, I'd use a heavy duty splitter (rated at 10 amps mimimum), plug the Koolatron battery saver to one port, plug in a great cigarette lighter to usb adapter to the Koolatron, and run the wire to my dashcam while retaining the ability to charge phones etc from the other port. When parked you would only want the camera in standy mode or surveillance (using g-force activated camera or motion activated camera) If my lighter only worked when my engine was on I'd set up a single USB line from the dashcam to a point under my dash, then I'd use the OBD port adapter when I needed to (when the engine is not on), and a cigarette lighter when the engine is running. So I would not just kludge in a couple of wires to my obd port. If your cigarette lighter is only powered when the engine is on you can use either of a couple of obd power supplies on Amazon and with a similar switch and they are very inexpensive. The easiest to find m to f adapter with the switch built in is made by Koolatron (it's called a "battery saver" and available on amazon). This rig will kill power to your dashcam if your battery drops below 11.6 volts. If you cigarette lighter is always on, you can put in a male to female lighter adapter with a low voltage cutoff switch and then a cigarette lighter to usb adapter to your dashcam. This is an actual electronics project tho. This way it doesn't drain the battery to death but it still runs for some period of time after you remove the key (during an accident for example). If you're trying to run the camera after the ignition is turned off, you might want to wire up something like a turbo timer- ie, a power supply directly connected to the battery that listens on a switched power line and then waits a configurable period of time before turning off the circuit.
#Hardwire garmin dash cam install#
If you're trying to install something on the ceiling near the rear view mirror, I find there is plenty of hollow space in the pillar around the windshield (makes pillar mount gauges with lots of wires very easy, certainly enough room to run power for a camera). If you just want the thing to run off car power and turn on and off with the ignition, you should splice into a switched power line under the dash- if there's nothing conveniently close to your install location, you can always just directly splice it in under the steering column and run a wire under the dash to wherever you need it. You could splice in behind the port if you know which wire is switched 12V though. No, that's bad because it blocks off the OBD2 port and the wire could get knocked out. So except for the fact that you will/could drain the battery, connecting a dash cam to the ODB II port should not give any problems.
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